Cape Town: Around False Bay
What you may not realize before arriving in Cape Town is just how big the city’s jurisdiction is as it really encompasses everywhere from Stellenbosch in the east, Cape of Good Hope to the south, up to Bokbaai in the north and the entirety of False Bay. It is a massive stretch. Fortunately, this allows for there to be a ton of things you can do, and from my personal experience, four weeks was not even close to be able to do everything Cape Town has to offer. In this section, let’s explore some of the places outside of the downtown area otherwise known as the CBD or Central Business District which is the main part of the city nestled under Table Mountain. I would definitely recommend part of your stay to be split between Cape Town CBD and one of these three areas along False Bay for that slow beach life.
Muizenberg
Muizenberg is a popular destination for people looking to get some surfing in during their stay in Cape Town. In my opinion surfer’s corner is rather unbeatable for the typical tourist because there are a number of surf shops and schools offering rentals and lessons right on the beach. It is best to stay on the surfer’s corner side of the river delta as on the other side Muizenberg slowly bleeds into a township. We had no problems in this part of Muizenberg during our stay. It is advisable to book your stay in advance as it is a popular tourist destination and there aren’t really any hotels. Most of the the accommodations will be apartments and homes which you can find on sites like Booking.com or Airbnb. You can also try African Soul Surfer. As it’s a popular surfing destination and there are sharks in the water, Muizenberg has shark spotters sitting high up on the mountain surveying the bay. A flag system is used to indicate spotting conditions.
There are a number of surf shops offering rentals and lessons in Muizenberg but my personal preference would have to lean towards Lifestyle Surf Shop. If you need lessons it might be best to pop into a few of the shops and make your choice from there. It felt that Lifestyle had a good system worked out for renting boards. It was 170 ZAR for a board and wet suit. They have changing rooms in the back of the shop and also a place to store your personal items or you are welcome to leave your valuables with the staff at the front desk. The rental is for two hours which was more than enough but I believe you can also ask for a 10-day pass which is slightly cheaper on a per day basis. There is an alleyway along the side of the building where you can walk in after surfing to keep the store clean. They also have showers for you to rinse off when you change out of the wet suit but bring your towel.
One thing I’d highly recommend in Muizenberg is going to the Blue Bird Garage Market. The market is open on Thursday and Friday evenings located at 39 Albertyn Rd. There are a number of food vendors selling all sorts of snacks and in three visits I don’t think we were able to try everything. There are two bars serving drinks, one in the back corner and a speakeasy in the back past the bathrooms. There are a few vendors selling books, clothing, leather, crafts and more. The seating is mostly made up of several long tables in the middle of the room so arrive on the early side to lock down a spot. You should be able to get a good seat if you arrive around 5:30 p.m. as the market fills up after 6 p.m.
There are a number of other good cafes and restaurants in Muizenberg especially the fact that the area is not very big. I wrote about some of the options at this link here so I will only mention a few of the highlights. Hans & Lloyd is a hit with great breakfast and coffee right next to Lifestyle Surf Shop. There is also Harvest Cafe which has excellent smoothies and smoothie bowls. You can find a cheap and hearty steak and eggs at Empire Cafe and The Shed was a hit for dinner with solid pizzas. For night life there is The Commons which routinely hosts events and all kinds of music so be sure to check their socials. They have a nice balcony and a comfortable lounge vibe. There is also the Striped Horse bar & grill which will get pretty busy on a weekend night.
kalk bay
Kalk Bay is another small area along False Bay. You can even walk here with a paved path along the water from Muizenberg or Fish Hoek and swim in tide pools along the way. Kalk Bay has some great restaurants, cafes and interesting shops. There are a few bookstores and places selling souvenirs from all over South Africa. You can check Wet Suit Warehouse for all your surfing, beach or apparel needs.
It may be difficult to find lodging in Kalk Bay as there are no hotels and only a few apartments or guesthouses listed on Booking.com or Airbnb. If you would like to stay in this part of False Bay then it is best to book in advance unless it is the off season. Definitely make reservations ahead of time for dinner in the summer as seating will fill up quickly.
Kalk Bay is quite active in the morning as people will be out walking, jogging, biking and swimming. There are tennis courts and a number of tide pools you can use for a quick dip when it’s hot. If you are staying in Muizenberg or Fish Hoek then it is definitely worthwhile to take a long walk along the coast and stop in Kalk Bay for nice lunch. Stop by Lekker Kalk Bay for an afternoon coffee and you might catch the rastas jamming out across the street.
fish hoek
Fish Hoek is a much more residential area opposed to Kalk Bay and Muizenberg. I am especially fond of this part of Cape Town because it is where we stayed the most during our time in South Africa. You can find very nice and affordable Airbnbs in this part and it felt pretty safe while we stayed there. The view from the homes perched on the hill is incredible and you can likely find places to rent with grills so you can have yourselves a braai. If you’re in a group I’d highly recommend Owl’s View Cottage. The host, Fiona, is excellent! Down from the neighborhood on the hill there is a main strip where you can find all sorts of shops and grocery stores. I definitely became a fan of Woolworth’s and the top quality of food there.
I enjoyed a few afternoons playing pool, drinking beer, watching ruby and meeting some locals at The Victorian Times or “The Vic” as it’s known. Uncanni can solve any of your green needs and they even have a cafe here which is not too far away. Fish Hoek also has a nice local beach which attracts a number of people on the weekend but it doesn’t have surfing like Muizenberg. One final note is that Ubers will be a little slow in these areas so be patient.
Simon's Town
Simon’s Town is a rather affluent area along False Bay towards the Cape of Good Hope. It is well known as a place where you can see penguins in the wild on their preserved beach. It costs 280ZAR to enter. There are a few small, hidden beaches nearby and if any penguins venture over you may be lucky enough to swim with them. I didn’t stay in this area but it looks as if there are a number of guesthouses and hotels. There is also a main strip where you will be able to find a number of restaurants and cafes. Simon’s Town has a small naval port as well and is home to the South African Naval Museum if that piques your interest.
